APPAREL PRE PRODUCTION MEETING GUIDANCE

Section 1: Introduction

1.1 Overview

The objective of the Pre-Production Meeting (PPM) is to:

1. Review all details and production requirements of production prior to bulk cutting.
2. Facilitate early detection of all potential production issues and develop appropriate action plans and solutions prior to bulk production.
3. Identify quality process control points
4. Avoid last minute quality failures due to lack of or missing style information prior to bulk production.
5. Validate factory production capacity and lead time for on time delivery quality product.
6. Address all quality callouts prior to bulk production

1.2 Pre-Production Meeting Flow Chart

     

Section 2: Pre-Production Meeting Preparation

2.1 Vendor / Factory Preparation

Prior to the Pre-Production Meeting, the Vendor / Factory merchant and production team is responsible for validation and preparation of the following:

1. A completed Manufacturing Ready Package (MRP).
2. Ensure Final Fit approved sample and all factory pattern and fit issues are reconciled before PP meeting.
3. Collect pre-production sample’s measurement and comments on aesthetic and key QA control points before PP meeting.
4. Verify receipt of all bulk fabrics and trims.
5. Prepare 3^rd Party bulk garment test report and internal lab test report for fabric or trims
6. Prepare full / jump size set sample in bulk fabric from factory production once a final GSS with size set comments is available.
7. For high risk styles, need to contact buyer QA to schedule the PP meeting with at least 5 days advance notice. For denim high risk styles due to washing process, please refer to GAP Source Library/Quality Assurance/ Quality Manuals SOP Guidelines/ Wet Processing PPM SOP for further details
8.  For repeat styles, needs to ensure all the MRP data with approved samples are correct and workable for coming bulk production. All previous approved standards should be reviewed. If the previous approved standards cannot be achieved in current production, factory should submit updated approval sample. For repeat styles, the approved sample / standards is valid for maximum 2 seasons only. 

2.2 Prepare Factory Jump / Full Size Set for Pre-Production Meeting

The Factory Jump / Full Size Set are the samples reviewed during the PP Meeting.  These samples should be prepared by production factory.  A PP sample will be made of the following:

1.     Bulk fabric and full color if possible

2.     Sewing construction and measurement follow Brand approved sample final comments.

3.     Right label placement.

4.     Use bulk trims such as zippers, buttons, interlinings, thread, labels, etc. If bulk trims are not available then any available trims for placement purpose will be sufficient

5.     Actual bulk washing effect and hand feel

6.     Actual bulk embroidery and print, if needed

2.3 BUYER QA or QA/INHOUSE Preparation

Prior to the Pre-Production Meeting, the QA/INHOUSEor Buyer QA team is responsible for the following:

1. Confirm vendor / factory production teams’ readiness and arrange for the PP meeting.
2. Study the MRP file and review product specific key construction tips before PP meeting.
3. Review kids/baby product safety recommendations from the line review report
4. Buyer QA/ QA/ Inhouse and Factory Production teams discuss key quality callouts on aesthetic and construction.
5. Review the full / jump size set sample with QA before the PP meeting to identify potential production issues.
6. Communicate with buyer office/Head for request / clarification of missing information/ samples.

2.4 Timing

1. Before bulk cutting and knitting commences for each style
2. Factory receipt of bulk fabric and key trims
3. Full jump size set samples are ready
4. Final approved fit sample and all fit / pattern issues reconciled
5. MRP information for Phase I is complete before PP meeting

5.1 For key critical elements missing, the PP meeting will be delayed until Vendor/Factory completes the MRP.  Critical elements are the following: Brand Approved Sample with Comments, Final GSS/techpack and Fabric Swatches…..etc.

5.2 In case the MRP information is incomplete; Buyer QA / QA /Inhouse will follow up and ensure all elements are completed prior to bulk production.

6.   Repeat styles have PP meeting once per every 2 seasons prior to bulk production.

2.5 Manufacturing Ready Package (MRP) Information

The MRP file is the master source of record that contains all of the production requirements for the style.  A complete MRP file reduces the likelihood of future quality issues because all style components are reviewed and discussed during the PP meeting.  When sections are incomplete, the opportunity for potential quality issues in bulk production increases.

Factory should have Phase I material completed for the PP meeting while getting the Phase II material complete before the corresponding bulk process starts. By the Final inspection, all the required material in MRP should be complete. The following information must be present in the MRP file.

	Before …
	Phase I	Phase II
MRP Information Key MRP elements highlighted in yellow	PP Meeting	Bulk Production	Washing	Packing	Final Inspection
PO Details = Confirmed Placement Sheet (CPS)	ü				ü
Final GSS & BOM	ü				ü
Brand Approved Standard Sample (green tag sample) with Comments	ü				ü
Approved fabric swatch and hand feel standard ( Print / strike off)	ü				ü
Embroidery/printing and placement	√				ü
Approved washing recipe for fabric/garment washed items (Signed off by FKR).	√				ü
Approved trims card (main label & care labels, buttons/snap, zipper, thread, lining, interlining, twill tape…)	√				ü
Full/Jump Size Set sample with comments	√				ü
Label & marketing trim placement	ü				ü
Line review reports (for Kids & Baby)	ü				ü
For all baby’s apparel/ soft accessory having light duty (12-16L) ring snaps: 24-hour Snap Attachment Strength Test Report	ü				ü
Fabric/yarn test reports	ü				ü
3rd Party Fabric Inspection Report, if applicable	ü				ü
Pre - Product Meeting Report / Size Set Measurement Sheet	ü				ü
DCPO		√			ü
Approved trims card (price ticket, hangtags, size sticker, polybag, plastic pin, tissue paper, hanger if applicable…)				√	ü
Additional approved shade lots and hand feel for all color		ü			ü
Lab Testing Reports: Mock Up Test, Pull Test, Garment Test -           For ALL baby’s apparel/soft accessory having Japan orders: Additional Formaldehyde Test Report per S2 sampling plan issued by Japan lab. -           For styles mentioned in full garment test report as high risk in flammability  (wearing apparel/scarves for all genders) : Additional Flammability Test Report per sampling plan listed in Softline Manual / Flammability Chapter, Table 1 & 2.		ü			ü
Approved wash standards and shade-bands once approved by SFGP.			ü		ü
Folding detail / Packaging details				√	ü
Factory Production Plan (WIP)		√
Additional correspondence from VM if applicable	As needed	As needed	As needed	As needed	As needed

2.6 Roles & Responsibilities

1.    Buyer QA

Position	Responsibility	High Risk Style	Standard Programs
Buyer QA Team	1.    Facilitate preproduction meeting 2.    Double check MRP readiness prior to bulk cutting 3.    Find out all potential quality issue with recommendation before mass production, special on construction and functional / small part issues (i.e. pocket opening construction, small part, etc) 4.    Review kids/baby product safety callouts 5.    Follow up on factory’s production and quality control points	For fully empowered factories, QA and Inhouse   participate; For non-empowered factories, buyer QA participates.	. Buyer QA only participates for non-empowered factories.
Vendor Management Team	1.    Convey key aesthetic details 2.    Communicate requirement of the product 3.    Review MRP with approval stamp for production and inspection ref., 4.    Follow-up with Vendor / Factory on fabric, trim, and wash standards 5.    Follow-up with brand to resolve inconsistencies with program standards	Optional	Optional
Fitting Technical Team / Wet Processing for Denim / Product Safety Team	1.    Convey technical fit history to buyer QA/Factory 2.    Pattern and sewing technical advice to ensure bulk can achieve as approved sample 3.    Conduct fitting on form and review GSS/techpack to ensure grading and tolerance is bulk achievable. 4.    Wet/dry processing standard/ shade band approval and bulk control points suggested. Details should refer to GAP Source Library/ Quality Assurance / Quality SOPs/ Wet Processing PPM SOP.    5.    For Baby & Kids product, please refer to line review report and contact Product Safety team for questions.	By Special Request	Nil.

*Via Conference Call, Video Conference, In Person as needed

2.    Vendor / Factory

Factory attendance in the PP meeting is required to cover the following areas of production responsibility. 

Factory Representative	Responsibility	High Risk Style	Standard Programs
Production	1.    Production plan & Delivery Lead time review 2.    Set up of bulk production control points and ensure actions executed across all departments. 3.    Prepare the Full/Jump size set samples.	ü	ü
Factory Key Representative and DA	1.    Review MRP file with complete information 2.    Check PP sample construction meet Gap testing standard before PP meeting (special concentration on small part, functional pocket construction, etc) 3.    Check Full / jump size set 4.    Set up Bulk checking on Quality/Visual/Measurement / Product Safety to ensure it consistently meets GIS requirement. 5.    Review Fabric & Trims testing and inspection reports 6.    Discuss and record key QA product control points and prepare PP report	ü	ü
Merchandising	1.    Prepare all approved sample/ trim card/ MRP and production Time & Action communication with all parties ready to do the job right from the beginning 2.    Confirm PO details and bulk fabric/trim are ready in factory 3.    Distribute documents and samples within production teams to ensure all the PP meeting information and standards were clear and complete 4.    Follow PP report and communicate to GIS VM, PQA, PI, and WP. ….etc for clarification / further standards when needed.	ü	ü
Patternmaker / Cutting	1.    Review technical construction details of Full/Jump size sample to meet GIS Quality / Visual/ Product Safety Requirement. 2.    Advise the Fitting requirement by fitting on dummy. 3.    Pattern and sewing technical advice to production line 4.    Prepare bulk patterns after review shrinkage test 5.    Confirm cutting direction/ fabric face for cutting	ü	ü
Laundry / Finishing	1.    Washing formula vs. hand feel 2.    Shrinkage allowance control by lot	ü	ü
Pressing / Packing	1.    Pressing and folding method 2.    Packing method, Carton size, and Shipping marks	ü	ü

Each party is responsible to have answers ready of pending issues.

SECTION 3 Conducting the Pre-Production Meeting

3.1 Review the MRP

Buyer QA or FKR and QA/Inhouse will review the MRP in detail prior to the actual meeting to identify all outstanding issues.  The focus in the PPM will be to discuss all outstanding issues that may impact bulk production quality.

1.     PO sheet & GSS/techpack

2.     Approved fabric swatch

3.     Approved trims cards

4.     Approved Pre-Production sample with comments

5.     Line review report

6.     Packing method

7.     Test report (fabric/yarn/leather + product)

8.     Discuss factory production plan and capacity review and prepare the Weekly Production Status Chart

3.2 Inspection guideline for Full / Jump size Set

1.     Study MRP file in detail and mark down any outstanding issues.

2.     Study brand approved standard with approval comments.

3.     Check Full / Jump Size Set sample styling against GSS and brand approved standard.

4.     Check Full / Jump Size Set sample for the following:

4.1 Color tone

4.2 Hand feel and washing effect, if GMT washing

4.3 Construction (knit or woven,)

4.4 Fabric weight / density / GMT weight for sweater

4.5 Review internal fabric shrinkage test report vs. BV / ITS fabric test report

5.     Measure all Full / Jump Size Set samples and complete measurement sheet.

6.     Check size grading, pattern and overall silhouette on each size sample

6.1 Fabric shrinkage vs. pattern builds in shrinkage % allowance

6.2 Seam allowance

6.3 Compare old pattern vs. corrected pattern per fit comments

6.4 Pattern grading vs. size spec grading vs. full size set sample measurement grading …

6.5 Pocket and button placement grading

6.6 Overall silhouette balance from S->M->L->XL

7.     Fit testing on dummy

7.1 Aesthetic

7.2 Balance

7.3 Movement on armhole, chest, shoulder and all join seam strength by wear test.

8.     Check cutting, sewing construction and workmanship.

8.1 Max no of plies for fabric spreading

8.2 Max no of ply and height for cutting

8.3 nap down or up, cutting direction

8.4 Stitching type and density

8.5 Seam construction & allowance

8.6 Needle, gauge, ball point or …

8.7 Collar / cuff / pocket setting and placement

8.8 Specialized machine, tucking,

8.9 Folder, guides, attachment

9.     Check Full / Jump Size Set sample trim quality, color matching and label placement

9.1 Button-size, lock stitching,

9.2 Zipper-length, zipper head size / opening direction

9.3 Functional check

9.4 Color matching

9.5 Label placement and sewing method.

9.6 Care instruction vs. lab test report.

9.7 Interlining, fusing temperature/pressure/speed test report…

10.  Any special Embroidery \ Print quality and placement.

11.  Check Full / Jump Size Set sample product safety and functional parts

11.1. Alert vendor/factory Tech should make sure pocket construction, small parts and functional    parts meet Gap testing requirement from sample development stage.

11.2. Enhance vendor/factory field QA/DA double check this part with in-house test report before PP meeting with GIS PQA if needed.

11.3. GIS PQA /DA double check pocket construction and small parts during PP meeting before mass production.

11.4. Encourage DA/GIS PQA to loop in PI/Testing for consultation if they have questions and challenges regarding pocket construction and small parts before PP meeting.

11.5. Min neck strength, pocket opening join seams and all weak points

11.6. Drawstrings

11.7. Small parts attachment

12.  Study special GMT wash (Dry & Wet processing) effects and hand feel

12.1 Washed blanket with approved washing formula.

12.2 Hand sanding, whiskers, tacking

12.3 Approved washed shade band (light / med / dark)

12.4 Washed standard

13.  Study folding and packing method, plan for pre-pack check at pilot stage

14.  Review with production team on the key product control points and inspection procedures

14.1 From left to right (Sleeve to sleeve)

14.2 From top to bottom (Collar to hem)

14.3 From outside to inside (stitching and seam allowance inside…). For inside, from bottom, check up to the care label position or 4” inches up. For top, open all buttons/ zippers to check inside. No need to turn garment all inside out.

14.4 Key attachment inspections (Embroidery, print, sequence, beads…etc) to ensure no sharp edges and un-attachment. 

14.5 Study overall balance.

3.3 Bulk Fabric and Trims Quality

1. Review factory’s internal fabric and trims inspection reports

1.1 Review shade band and lots: side to side, side to center, and end to end.

1.2 Review shrinkage report for fabric / trims (before and after washing, ironing)

1.3 Review internal interlining fusing report, if applicable. (type, fusing temperature, pressing, speed)

1.4 Review functionality and visual consistence of bulk trims.

3.4 Aesthetic and Construction Recommendations

The Vendor/Factory will provide the following by Department and by Style:

1.     Identify where key production control points will be inserted into the line

2.     Recommend the best solutions for mass production

3.5 Post Meeting Documentation

The Vendor/Factory will complete all post meeting documentation.

1.     Record all production control points, quality control points and Time & Action (T&A) plan.

2.     Complete the Pre-Production meeting report.

3.     Distribute PP meeting report to production teams and include a copy in the MRP for DA follow up

4.     Follow up Pilot Run/TOP sample submission.

SECTION 4 Pre-Production Meeting Follow-up

4.1 Follow up items

1.     Factory production team supervisors are accountable to ensure that all production control points in PP meeting are implemented with the line workers before bulk production.  The date of implementation is documented on the PP meeting report.

2.     QA buyer / Factory Key Representative (FKR) and QA/Inhouse will follows-up T & A, all production control and quality control points on site and verify the effectiveness.

3.     As needed, Buyer QA/ FKR and QA/Inhouse may set up additional meetings with factory departments where there is more production risk.

4.     FKR and QA complete PP meeting report and include a copy in the MRP for future production reference.  Vendor/factory will fax/email the completed PP meeting report to buyer pusat upon requested.

5.     Pre-production meeting report must be available for all department supervisors and in-house QA for execution and monitoring.   

4.2 Successful Pre-Production Meeting

1.     Construction requirements and aesthetic details are clearly conveyed to the Vendor/Factory

2.     All factory leaders are aligned on the production approach

3.     All PP meeting report states production control, quality control points and T & A are implemented effectively.

4.     All potential construction issues are discussed and factory recommends solutions prior to bulk production or communicate with Buyer ManagerQA, PI, WP accordingly when needed.